The “food of kings” (quite literally: King Charles is known to have a penchant for caviar) is now being democratised, thanks to the power of social media. No longer seen as fin de siècle excess, the salt-cured fish roe is cropping up on the Instagram feeds of Gen Z foodies and business is booming as a result. Katie Joseph, fresh and deli buyer at Fortnum & Mason, reports that December’s caviar sales were up six per cent versus the previous year, while the UK caviar market is forecast to grow by 40 per cent over the next two years.
It all started with caviar “bumps” going viral. Converts were seen putting a small dollop on the back of their hand, giving it a few seconds to warm, then licking it off in one hit, preferably followed by a swig of champagne or ice-cold vodka. When Taylor Swift took a selfie devouring a bump, it was watched by millions; their interest piqued, her followers rushed to photograph themselves emulating their idol. At £30 for the smallest 10g tin of entry-level caviar, enough for a bump for four friends, the trend costs about the same as a G&T in a pub.
Caviar House is one of the world’s largest importers and distributors of caviar. It has owned its own sustainable sturgeon farm since the mid 1990s but it’s only since wild caviar was banned in early 2006 that sustainable caviar farming has become the norm all over the world, with China now the single largest producer. This means there is a greater choice of suppliers (including reliable online stores), better affordability, and a broader clientele.
King has run her business for almost 20 years and cheerfully acknowledges that the past 12 months have seen a seismic shift in the number of chefs wanting caviar on their menus.
“Caviar is my favourite ingredient,” enthuses Tom Booton, head chef of The Grill at The Dorchester. “I love how the pop of caviar can enhance a dish, whether it is lifting the crispness of fried chicken or adding a delicate burst of umami to cod chowder with clams. The demand for caviar is insane, especially as I offer it as a ‘side’ for any dish for £10.”
In Cornwall, Paul Ainsworth serves a ‘Land & River’ tart at No 6 Padstow. Filled with hot-smoked eel, whipped smoked cod’s roe, apple and crapaudine beetroot, it’s complemented by the roast hazelnut, buttery flavours of caviar.
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